Pretty sure the clincher brigade missed the point there…

The amount of “tubeless hate” in the comments is interesting. If you’re happy with tubes, that’s great. No one is trying to change your mind on that. It’s a perfectly valid choice. There are costs/benefits to any system and everyone has a different value equation.

If  you’re tubeless-curious then it’s worth noting that when tubeless works, it’s magic, it’s not uncommon to discover that it it worked purely by accident (i.e. finding some dried sealant on the frame, or by discovering a paperclip still embedded in the tire). Depending on the size of the hole it might not be a permanent fix, and then you deal with it just like a punctured inner tube (minus the sealant drippage). Ultimately, I see it mostly as a “you’re no worse off” kind of thing. If you were running an inner tube, whatever caused your tubeless puncture would have put you on the side of the road anyway. Yes it can be a bit messy if you have to take the tire off, but there are solutions to that problem (e.g. nitrile gloves or a single-use cleaning wipe), but in return you generally get lower rolling resistance, remove snake bites as a cause for punctures, and get enhanced protection from small punctures.

Regarding the comments around how hard it is to take off the tire, generally I’ve found that the easiest way to get it to unseat is to place the valve side at the bottom b/w by feet and grab the top of the tire and twist the backside forward with the heels of both hands (haven’t met a tire/rim combo that this didn’t work; including GP 5000 TL). Where I think the presenter here gets it [horribly] wrong is where he uses a tire lever to pull off one side of the tire. That shouldn’t be necessary, and seems really sketch on  a carbon rim.

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